Camino del Norte
Day 21
Sept 23
Tonight we are in a wonderful Albergue in the tiny village of Bodenaya…near the equally lovely town of Salas.
A short day today..19 km. Last night we stayed in the Monastery in a town whose name escapes me just now. We walked a short 20 something km from the big city of Oviedo to the old Monastery.
No longer in use by any monks and in disrepair this huge structure is operated as a pilgrim Albergue. A small portion has been upgraded into a very nice modern area to stay. A full kitchen for all to use, laundry with two modern washing machines and 2 dryers, very nice bathrooms and showers and bunk beds in 4 large rooms. We caught up on our laundry, sat in the courtyard in the hot sun and later enjoyed another pasta meal created by our Danish chef and traveling companion.
We left the Monastery just after 8:00am. Another blue sky sunny day that started first with high cloud, actually low clouds that are fog at the hilltops. Perfect for walking as it is cool and fresh. The sun manages to burn through by 10:30 or 11:00 and out come the sunglasses as the temperature climbs.
We arrived at tonights stop before the 2:00 pm opening time and sat in the sunshine at a picnic table out front. The hospitalero couple brought their midday meal out to join us at the table and delivered a much appreciated cold beer for me.
At 2:00 the door opened and we were welcomed to Bodenaya…an Albergue that is run in the traditional fashion.
Historically the peregrinos walked with the hope of being offered shelter in the homes and barns of the farmers and villagers along the way. Payment was not expected but donations were welcome.
We have been offered a night in this home, dinner is provided as is breakfast. ‘Our home is your home’ is the welcome we receive. Payment is voluntary, there is fruit on the table, bread and cheese, beer and sodas in the fridge.
They ask us for any laundry we wish to have clean and it will be washed and dried when we get up tomorrow. There are two rooms upstairs with maybe 6 sets of bunk beds plus 2 singles that Donna and I grabbed. The house is 160 years old with the kitchen & living area downstairs with a low ceiling where the cattle used to be kept overnight. Historically the livestock stayed on the ground floor and the farm family lived above allowing the heat from the animals to keep the upstairs warm.
It’s a fascinating world. Dinner is at 8:00. Looks like we have a guitar player plus our Dutch violin girl and a happy mix of pilgrims from around the world.
Enough for today on the iPhone!
With love from Spain
Tim
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